The brake (stop) lights on my 95 Volvo quit working. I checked the DC power (12V) at the light socket and/or the wiring connector. Since one of the bulbs was burnt out, I replaced it with one from the Parts Store. My first problem was there’s no power to the light sockets or wiring connectors. I checked the fuse (#4 15A) on fuse box at the center console behind the ashtray and shifter. The fuse was OK, so I checked for power at the brake light switch underneath the dash near the brake pedal. There was power going in, but none coming out when the brake pedal was depressed. This indicated a defective brake light switch. To replace the brake light switch, I removed the cover and panel below the steering column and the SRS bolster using star set screw driver attachment and a cordless power drill. You can also do it manually, but it just takes longer. It’s pretty tight down there if you don’t remove the panel and SRS bolster. The brake light switch is basically made of plastic and it’s easier to install than remove it. I used a long nose pliers to pry the old switch out after I disconnected the 4-wire connector. Once the old switch is out, it’s a good idea to connect the new switch to the 4-wire connector before installing it to make sure it’s working. Installing the new switch is a matter of pushing it in place, ensuring the tabs are matching, otherwise it won’t go in. Once the new switch is in, reconnect the 4-wire connector, then adjust the switch by pushing or pulling on the connector. The recommended clearance is 5mm, but you can guesstimate so long as the brake lights work when the brake pedal is depressed and the lights are off when you are not stepping or pressing on the pedal. After verifying the brake lights now work properly, re-install the SRS bolster, panel, and cover.
I also previously encountered a baffling problem with power coming out of the brake light switch, but no power to the brake light sockets or wiring connectors. I fixed it by running a separate red wire between the brake light switch (the wire going to the back vice the one on the fuse side) and crimping or tapping the wire to the appropriate wires (in my case it was the yellow with red stripe). It’s best to use a 12VDC test light or multi-meter to do the testing. If your dash shows a blown-defective bulb indicator is lit up, then the bulb failure relay or bulb check relay is probably defective. It is located behind the fuse box. You’ll have to remove some screws securing the panel cover from the center console above the ashtray.
NOTE: Parts photos are used for illustration only, courtesy of World Pac and affiliates.
By: Dan Bunag
http://profitsandprosperitypartners.com
http://www.cashcrate.com/890303
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