95 Volvo 940 Stalling Intermittently

By: Dan Bunag

www.ProfitsandProsperityPartners.com

For some time, my 95 Volvo has been stalling intermittently. It was quite baffling because the car starts and runs fine and it was hard to duplicate the problem. I wasn’t prepared to go to a garage mechanic or dealer yet, since troubleshooting or diagnosis would likely cost $90-$120 per hour. Then there was no guarantee that the problem would be fixed. I researched some posts and forums to see if the problem has been reported and what the fix action was. There were two possible fixes if you happen to notice that the dash tachometer goes down right away when the engine stalls. The combined parts total was a lot less than an hour of garage troubleshooting or diagnostic work. If your car is over 5 years old, I suggest just ordering parts from one of the well known auto parts store like Rock Auto or Volvo Parts Direct and replacing the radio noise suppression relay (about $32) and the crankshaft position sensor, also known as TDC sensor, (about $40-50). The radio noise suppression relay is located near the driver’s side (US specs vehicles) strut tower in the engine compartment. The crankshaft position sensor is located on top of the transmission bell housing behind the engine near the firewall. It is held in place by a 10mm bolt. Another possible problem could be the fuel pump relay ($30-$40). It’s the white relay behind the fuse box located at the center of the dash underneath the radio/cassette player. If this doesn’t solved your problem, then it’s time to visit your trusted mechanic or dealer garage shop.

NOTE: Parts pictures used for illustration courtesy of Rock Auto.

http://profitsandprosperitypartners.com/

http://profitsandprosperitypartners.com/ipcinstantcash/

http://www.cashcrate.com/890303

95 Volvo 940 Brake-Stop Lights Not Working

The brake (stop) lights on my 95 Volvo quit working. I checked the DC power (12V) at the light socket and/or the wiring connector. Since one of the bulbs was burnt out, I replaced it with one from the Parts Store. My first problem was there’s no power to the light sockets or wiring connectors. I checked the fuse (#4 15A) on fuse box at the center console behind the ashtray and shifter. The fuse was OK, so I checked for power at the brake light switch underneath the dash near the brake pedal. There was power going in, but none coming out when the brake pedal was depressed. This indicated a defective brake light switch. To replace the brake light switch, I removed the cover and panel below the steering column and the SRS bolster using star set screw driver attachment and a cordless power drill. You can also do it manually, but it just takes longer. It’s pretty tight down there if you don’t remove the panel and SRS bolster. The brake light switch is basically made of plastic and it’s easier to install than remove it. I used a long nose pliers to pry the old switch out after I disconnected the 4-wire connector. Once the old switch is out, it’s a good idea to connect the new switch to the 4-wire connector before installing it to make sure it’s working. Installing the new switch is a matter of pushing it in place, ensuring the tabs are matching, otherwise it won’t go in. Once the new switch is in, reconnect the 4-wire connector, then adjust the switch by pushing or pulling on the connector. The recommended clearance is 5mm, but you can guesstimate so long as the brake lights work when the brake pedal is depressed and the lights are off when you are not stepping or pressing on the pedal. After verifying the brake lights now work properly, re-install the SRS bolster, panel, and cover.

I also previously encountered a baffling problem with power coming out of the brake light switch, but no power to the brake light sockets or wiring connectors. I fixed it by running a separate red wire between the brake light switch (the wire going to the back vice the one on the fuse side) and crimping or tapping the wire to the appropriate wires (in my case it was the yellow with red stripe). It’s best to use a 12VDC test light or multi-meter to do the testing. If your dash shows a blown-defective bulb indicator is lit up, then the bulb failure relay or bulb check relay is probably defective. It is located behind the fuse box. You’ll have to remove some screws securing the panel cover from the center console above the ashtray.

NOTE: Parts photos are used for illustration only, courtesy of World Pac and affiliates.

By: Dan Bunag

http://profitsandprosperitypartners.com

http://www.cashcrate.com/890303

http://www.lunarpages.com/id/ymbunag